Shwesandaw Pagoda is the most popular sunset/sunrise viewing spot in Bagan (after the authority prohibited tourists to climb up to other popular pagoda).
Another good spot is the Pyathada Pagoda which has the biggest terrace platform (can fit in more tourist). It is also a popular pagoda to view the cattle trespassing on the journey home.
The Shwesandaw Pagoda has a distinctive white stupa with steep staircase leading to the 5 levels of terraces.
The pagoda was constructed in 1057.
It was a good spot to view the morning balloon ride over the misty pagodas.
The pagoda could get a bit crowded with hundreds of tourists pack on the top terrace
Pyathada Paya has different feel. I like the candle lit passage climbing to the terrace. If you are coming for sunset view, remember to bring a torch light on your descend after dark.
We were not very lucky on the few days at Bagan. The sunset and sunrise views were not as impressive as what we seen at Borobudur.
Anyway, there is nothing much to do at Bagan after dark, so we might as well watch the sunset like other tourists. I like the orange hue silhouette of the many stupas across the flat plain. It was magical.